Here is London - Part 1
Returned to California from London to find 85 degree weather and a house full of friends. James and surprise guest Peter picked up Rob and I from LAX and we found Ginger and second surprise guest Adi waiting for us in Marina Del Rey. We are so lucky to have such wonderful friends. Bleary eyed and excited to tell them about our amazing trip to London + Paris, we stayed up as late as we could to reset our utterly confused inner clocks. Rob managed 10pm and I hit the wall close to midnight.
Day 1
After a 10 hour flight on Virgin Airlines we arrived at Heathrow around 6pm to find the weather we were expecting. Danimal picked us up with our colleague Martin, we jammed ourselves and our ridiculously large red suitcase in the front seat of the tiniest economy car I've ever seen. At the half way point we transferred to train, then tube and checked in at the Fleming Mayfair Hotel.


A quick freshen up where I blew up my hairdryer despite the adaptor then off to a pub in Picadilly with Dan, Martin and Jo. Note: gorgeous photos taken by Rob and his 35mm will follow in dedicated blog post. For the time being, goofiness captured by my digi-cam will tell the story.



Our first meal in London was in Chinatown, we scurried upstairs for a late night feast after being wooed in to the restaurant by an eager waiter. I do believe it was the best crispy duck I've had.
Our waiter set the table and served at lightning speed and only said either "thank you" or "yes" to anything we asked him. You can imagine how funny this was to all of us after a few pints.


Ha ha, we made Rob sit on the other side of the table because he smelled funny from the flight. I keed, I keed! Starting to feel the loss of an entire day from travel, we made one last stop in Picadilly Circus for a night cap at Jewel. Seeing the chandeliers and jewel room explained the name. Jo knew about this posh spot that was peppered with fancy people. Throughout the trip we discovered Jo knew a lot of the best places all over the city, always in proximity to an important landmark or historical site. We were never thirsty or hungry for long. Thanks Jo!


We navigated our way back to our hotel and discovered that the temperature was somewhere in the mid 80's. We slept with all the windows open and despite the winter weather outside we never used the blankets the whole trip.
Day TwoWe were lucky to have Dan at our disposal all day on Monday. He took the day off from work though spent some time yammering away on his mobile dealing with file de-duping. I won't go into painful detail on that. Being the fine tour guide and good friend that he is, he set us up with our own mobile for the duration of the trip plus low cost tube passes called Oyster cards. Funny though, on average I think we walked 6 miles a day and only used the tube a few times. That's the way Rob and I like to see new places.
I'd scheduled a wake up call for 10am and forced myself to get up and head downstairs for some breakfast and writing time.
We met up with Dan around 11am and made our way past Green Park, said hello to Big Ben and the London Eye and walked all the way over to Tate Modern. Took the foot bridge over the Thames, passed the Oxo Tower (no, I have not been up the Oxo Tower, thank you very much) and stopped in at a two story pub overlooking the river. At last, our first English meal. Toad in a Hole for me, fish and chips with mushy peas for Rob and steak pie for Dan.
Can someone tell me how Londoners stay thin?





The rain stopped and we moved on, considerably heavier from lunch. The Tate gallery was fantastic and I think every city could take a lesson in making such a space filled with famous and talented artists free to the public. Picasso, Rivera, Matisse to name a few. In the corner of one of the rooms I spotted a painting that I have always loved. I couldn't believe my eyes and stayed there examining the Portrait of Hermine Gallia (1904) by Gustav Klimt for a while.

The Tate had a series of metal and Plexiglas slides shooting out in spiral from the 5th level, the 4th level and for the kiddies, on the 2nd level. The queue to slide down to the ground on the tallest slides was very long so we stood in line with the kids on the 2nd level and took our turns. Bundled up in a cloth sack, the momentum was unexpected and I think I shrieked all the way down.

From the Tate we walked further into the city to Saint Paul's Cathedral. We just missed being able to go in as they were setting up for 5pm mass. It was really beautiful even if only from the outside.

Rob referred to his unique guide book
A Hedonist's Guide to London (Filmer Ltd) for our next destination that took us a long way up Farrington Road to Cafe Kick. I thought this was a pretty funny picture of the boys trying to figure out which way was east, to our destination.

Eventually we found this cute little space which was dedicated to football, or soccer as we call it on the other side of the world. A cold beer after a long walk and some foosball for the boys after the bartender gave Rob a free game for sharing namesake with the cafe.

Later on, we hopped on a double decker and drove through Oxford, New Oxford, Soho and made it back to the hotel in time to change into our fancy duds (thank you Ginger for sassy boots and blouse straight out of Sex in the City) for our night out. Dan, recovering from bad cold bowed out to get some rest. I give Rob credit for planning this wonderful evening out. The man has impeccable taste and enjoys the good life. He made reservations at
Fino a Spanish tapas bar in the West End. It was a beautiful restaurant with some of the best service I have experienced. We needed help decoding the menu - I love to try something new. Dried Spanish meats, olives, flat bread with garlic and tomato seeds, seared tuna with fresh tomato compote, rib eye with tarragon and a fascinating chick pea, Italian chorizo and spinach like stew. We had a few glasses of Temparanillo but had to cut it short to make our 9pm reservation at the elusive private club Milk and Honey in Soho.
Negotiated 20 pound fee down to 10 pounds with our driver (rain + sassy boots = limited walking) and found ourselves driving at top speed in reverse in the back of a silver Mercedes to 61 Poland Street.
We have a small collection of photos of each other in the back of taxis from different cities. It's where it all began for us!


The door of Milk and Honey was a plain black facade, with a small opening at eye level. We were buzzed in to the foyer which was a small dark room with a man standing behind a tiny counter. He verified our reservation and called through to the next room to have someone come out to greet us. We slid into the same side of a booth and ordered martinis that arrived at our table in 1930's style champagne glasses. The room was lit only by candle light and was quiet on a Monday night. Would I say it was worth all the work to get the special reservation? Well, I'm glad we know what it's all about now but I wouldn't spend $1200/year to become a member.
Nearly tuckered out, we braved the rain for a night cap and found the Amber Bar. No joke! Of course we had to stop in. A giddy glass of red wine and a near fatal tumble for a neighboring chef who lost his footing on the wet floor in front of our table, grabbed one sassy boot but it didn't break his fall. We asked him if he was ok but in response we got "Did I amuse you?". Cheeky. Caught a taxi home to our hot little room and slept straight through the night.
Amber in Amber Bar
Day 3
On the good advice of James and Ginger, if you want to have tea while in London there is only one place to go.
The Palm Court at the Ritz...

After a near meltdown due to our hot hotel room and my third hairdryer (sorry for being a sweaty maniac babe) we made it in time for our 11:30am reservation for tea. Rob looked gorgeous in his suit and tie. A lovely three tiered feast of sweets, scones and little sandwiches (no crusts of course), individual silver teapots (Earl Grey for Rob, English Breakfast for me).
Click
here for the view from inside Palm Court.



After tea we strolled through Green Park heading towards Buckingham Palace. The weather was gorgeous and white and yellow daffodils were blooming everywhere. How did I manage to not take a picture of the palace? I know Rob did - so check back later for that. While sitting in front of the palace we saw Prince Charles zooming by accompanied by a motorcade, it was pretty cool.

From here, the day took a turn for the worse. In every holiday a little drama must occur. I think it was a combination of fatigue and perpetual overheating at the hotel but when we returned to our room after seeing the palace we started thinking about our day trip to Paris the next day. Looking through our itinerary packet that held all of our tickets and reservation confirmations we realized that we did not have our Eurostar tickets we needed the next morning. A bit of a huff, a half hour nap for me and a trip to Kinko's in a little neighborhood near our hotel that we may have never noticed, Rob succeeded in solving the problem. Thanks to Elena our faithful cat-sitter who found the tickets in our apartment back in Santa Barbara and scanned them over to Rob via email.

Paris once again the plan for the next day, we had an early supper near our hotel. We felt badly for cancelling our dinner with Dan and Jo but a 4:30am wake up call made us do it. Funny though, neither of us got more than a few hours sleep. We were so excited to see Paris we tossed and turned all night.
Next entry see Rob at 5:30am at Waterloo station...